If you read my last blog you already know about the different options for lifting the most popular Jeep suspensions, one thing that remains a constant among all of them is there weak axle side lower control arm mounts (the frame side mounts have their own issues as well) The problem with the lower control arm mounts, specifically in the front is that they hang below the axle tube where they are susceptible to damage from trail obstacles. Couple this with a weak stamped steel design from the factory, with no type of skid plate and it's easy to see why most people end up bending or breaking these mounts.
This is exactly what happened to a good friend of mine on our clubs annual Easter trip to Windrock Park last year; and in true wheeler fashion he waited until the week before this years trip to properly fix it, due to work schedules and a busy family life it left me fabricating him a new mount less than 12 hours before his departure!
There are several options out there to replace and upgrade the factory mounts, however with a little patience and some 3/16" steel you can throw one together in a couple of hours. For this repair I first cut the old bent up one off, it was pretty beat up, but I was still able to use it as a rough base for the new one. Be sure to clean all of the remnants of the old mount from the axle, remove all paint and rust from the entire area so that when you weld the new one on it will be a good solid weld.
I traced both sides onto a piece of cardboard, and added a little extra material on the axle side since that is where I cut it off. Once I cut out the template I also added the bolt hole location using the back of the original mount as the guide.
I then "bolted" it into the lower control arm and swung it up into place and began the trimming process, trimming a small amount at a time until it fits in the factory location correctly. It is important to account for the top plate in this process, however if need be you can trim the tops of the side plates once they are all fit up.
Once you are satisfied with the way the cardboard fits, it's time to transfer it to the steel. I have the benefit of a plasma cutter in our shop, however you could do this with an oxy fuel torch, a bandsaw, or even a grinder with a cut-off wheel. You will then need to transfer the bolt hole location and drill those through as well, keep in mind that you don't want to make these holes any larger than need be or you will end up with a lot of slop which could lead to death wobble.
Be sure to de-bur everything real good, you may be doing this in your driveway, or your poorly equipped garage, but it doesn't need to look like it, take some time to make it look good now so you won't be embarrassed to show it off to your buddies later.
Now start the trimming process over, this time with the steel parts, fit your pieces together using the control arm to hold it all together, don't tighten the bolt to much or you final gap will be to tight. Take your time, make sure your gaps are as tight as possible. Tack all the pieces in but be sure the tacks are in an area that can be cut out if you aren't happy with the fitment. Again, don't rush this, make sure all the pieces are fit correctly, and the lower control arm is at the correct angle; once you are 100% happy with the fitment add a few more tacks to lock it all in place. Remove the lower control arm from your new mount so you don't melt the bushing, plus this allows you to access the inside of the mount. Now weld that sucker in!
I also added a small plate to the front side of the mount (That Jeep should have included from the factory) this acts as a skid plate, and helps to stiffen the mount to help keep it from folding over if you hit a rock. I added one to the factory mount too in hopes of keeping it in one piece so I don't need to do this again after the next trip out.
Be sure to paint everything before reassembling to keep the rust
This is exactly what happened to a good friend of mine on our clubs annual Easter trip to Windrock Park last year; and in true wheeler fashion he waited until the week before this years trip to properly fix it, due to work schedules and a busy family life it left me fabricating him a new mount less than 12 hours before his departure!
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| This lower control arm mount was ripped completely off by a rock, it was then temporarily welded back on. |
There are several options out there to replace and upgrade the factory mounts, however with a little patience and some 3/16" steel you can throw one together in a couple of hours. For this repair I first cut the old bent up one off, it was pretty beat up, but I was still able to use it as a rough base for the new one. Be sure to clean all of the remnants of the old mount from the axle, remove all paint and rust from the entire area so that when you weld the new one on it will be a good solid weld.
I traced both sides onto a piece of cardboard, and added a little extra material on the axle side since that is where I cut it off. Once I cut out the template I also added the bolt hole location using the back of the original mount as the guide.
I then "bolted" it into the lower control arm and swung it up into place and began the trimming process, trimming a small amount at a time until it fits in the factory location correctly. It is important to account for the top plate in this process, however if need be you can trim the tops of the side plates once they are all fit up.
Once you are satisfied with the way the cardboard fits, it's time to transfer it to the steel. I have the benefit of a plasma cutter in our shop, however you could do this with an oxy fuel torch, a bandsaw, or even a grinder with a cut-off wheel. You will then need to transfer the bolt hole location and drill those through as well, keep in mind that you don't want to make these holes any larger than need be or you will end up with a lot of slop which could lead to death wobble.
Be sure to de-bur everything real good, you may be doing this in your driveway, or your poorly equipped garage, but it doesn't need to look like it, take some time to make it look good now so you won't be embarrassed to show it off to your buddies later.
I also added a small plate to the front side of the mount (That Jeep should have included from the factory) this acts as a skid plate, and helps to stiffen the mount to help keep it from folding over if you hit a rock. I added one to the factory mount too in hopes of keeping it in one piece so I don't need to do this again after the next trip out.Be sure to paint everything before reassembling to keep the rust
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